CNC Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bits, 1/2 inch Shank 2 inch Cutting Diameter, Slab Flattening Router Bit Planing Bit Wood Milling Cutter Planer Woodworking Tool by NITOMAK (Carbide)

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The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. If you can, take a knowledgeable mate with you when you hire, to check the machine out before you accept it.

The main thing you'll need to be careful about, beyond keeping your fingers away from the bit, is to always be aware of where the wood that you're removing is in relation to the bit. Each bit includes a friction-fit holder made of an advanced polymer, which can be mounted horizontally or upright. So it was a surprise how pernickety it was when I had to do a big slab of oak, which was rather precious to its owner. It is hard to tell from the picture of your entire workpiece, but the close up picture almost looks like the assembly might be sagging in the middle of the cut and digging in deeper.

You'll be working blind, so you can't see in real time what the bit is doing and whether a problem is occurring that can't be heard but only seen. Reiterating what has been said and adding a bit to bring all the tips together in one place: Your guide rails have to be very straight, parallel to each other, and well anchored in place. VERSATILE WOODWORKING TOOlS: This professional bottom cleaning router bit is not only perfect for wood slab flattening, resurface or plane the top surface of the spoilboard, but also for trimming and slotting/grooving.

I use a 25mm CMT bit, and for the first 2 or 3 runs I cut heavy, maybe around an 1/8th, then as I get closer to final level, I make much shallower passes, like a 1/16th or less. wings make a fast and clean cut on your project material, great for projects of any level of complexity.And it could project the workpiece towards the operator, not away, leading to a kickback-like injury to your torso. Also, like Nathan said, everything needs to be rigid and fixed against movement for your slab and your side rails.

The range includes tungsten carbide router bits which are suitable for use on softwoods, hardwoods, plywood and some plastics. I think Klingspor carries them under their own name brand, they have the same model number as the Whiteside bits (I'm like 90% sure of this but I could be wrong. Your first task will almost certainly be getting one side out of wind, so do you have a flat enough and big enough surface to work on? The above really overshadow anything else, but additional issues relate to the parallel bars you're envisaging using, including how they'll be attached to the board, how you'd ensure they are parallel to each other and then parallel the opposite face of the board. I have since gotten rid of the Triton and gone back to my Milwaukee routers plus one Makita RP2301FC plunge router which I really like.

And then you have to put the workpiece back down carefully and push it back into position (still working blind remember) until the bit unexpectedly re-engages with the work. The answer to your question is no, this is not a good idea :-) Flattening a board is safe, repeatable and not dangerous if done with a router sled and it isn't just normally done that way, it's almost universally done that way. Though the shank size is similar to the previous W05002 router bit, its cutting diameter is larger than that. When I was in an industry that hired lots of stuff, the going rate, for VERY expensive kit, (and the cheapest) was around 1% of the capital cost per day. You can change your choices at any time by visiting Cookie preferences, as described in the Cookie notice.